It's always a struggle to show neutral on a white background (hint: don't), but what ere they thinking? White is the legally required neutral color, and black is the conventional hot color. I would find that drawing very confusing. ![]() Remember: the run from service panel to first AFCI must be either metal-jacketed cable or metal conduit. If the picture does not show the correct way to wire, how to do it. Also, I did the above testing with a table lamp plugged to the GFCI and the lamp was off when either AFCI or GFCI was set to off.Can anyone shed some light into why 1) the small explosion happened? 2) the tester lights indicate that ground and hot are reversed? Btw, I did check the connections yet again and they are correctly wired, no cuts and not touching.When AFCI is on and GFCI is off the test lights indicate the hot and ground were reversed. When the AFCI is off and GFCI is on, tester plugged into GFCI was off. When both are on tester indicates it was wired correctly. Used an outlet tester (Kline tools see below for pic.) with lights to test them.Then disconnected the regular outlet, repaired the connection and tried again (with AFCI and GFCI only).Checked the wiring and it was correct (already have 4 other new circuits that are protected by either AFCI or GFCI, but not both in the same branch circuit). Turned off the breaker and checked to and saw the black line wire to GFCI was severed, in side the box. ![]() ![]() When turned on the breaker and reset the AFCI (comes as off mode), small explosion took place in the GFCI box.See picture below to see how I wired them (note: AFCi was blank face). I've a new basement kitchen 20amp circuit (with regular 20 amp breaker) that has a blank face AFCI (near the panel), GFCI outlet (first outlet in the kitchen) and regular outlet at the end (used a 15 amp in a 20 amp circuit for testing purposes only.
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